When I went up to the kitchen this morning to get my coffee, Carl's friend Will Poole was there waiting for his breakfast (he had to leave early today). We had a great time talking as he ate breakfast and tried my Cherry Coffee Cake. Will is a trained chef and a chocolatier who used to own Wynn Chocolates in Denver. Overall he liked it, made a few suggestions for improving it in the future but liked it enough to put it in "his little notebook" he carries around with him to write down ideas for food and chocolate. I was very pleased to be an addition to his book! Too bad he lives in New Orleans now :-(. We were so busy talking, I was late catching the bus and therefore late for set up! Carl teased me about talking so much, lol.
Our chef lecture by Chef Dale this morning was on Olive Oils, Balsalmic Vinegar and Salts. There are four types of olive oil: Extra-Virgin Olive Oil(EVOO), Virgin Olive Oil, Olive Oil and Olive Pomace Oil (who'd have thought). EVOO is the top grade of olive oil and it is oil obtained from the fruit of the olive tree solely by the first mechanical pressing. There can be no chemical or thermal treatment applied to extract the oil. EVOO offers the widest range of flavors, colors and aromas. It also has a maximum acidity of 1% oleic acid. EVOO is also known as "Tuscan Gravy". The challenges these days is not in finding superior Extra-Virgin Olive Oils, but in choosing among them. You'll see 3-liter tins for $15 at supermarkets and small, fancy bottles for $30 and up in gourmet shops. Oils at the higher end may be made with handpicked olives from a single estate and artesan pressing methods; oils at the lower end may be perfectly decent commercial blends. Start tasting them and you will discover that every oil is unique!
Virgin Olive Oil is the next grade in oils. The oil is extracted from olives that are slightly riper than those used in the production of EVOO. Virgin olive oil is produced in the same way, no heat or chemicals applied, but the oil has a higher acidity and is judged to have a good taste.
For Olive Oil, some of the Virgin olive oil extreated thru the methods described above is not considered suitable for human consumption due to an off taste or an acidity level higher than 3.3%. When this is the case, this oil must be refined to eliminate all color, flavor and odor. This refined oil is then blended with Virgin Olive Oil to produce Olive Oil. The amount of Virgin Olive Oil blended in varies according to each manufacturer, however, typical percentages of Virgin oil are between 5-25%.
Olive Pomace Oil is the portion of the olive that is left after the first pressing. Additional oil can be extracted from the olive pomace with the use of heat and chemicals. This oil is then refined and must be blended with Virgin Olive oil to produce an oil that is acceptable to consumers. Pomace Olive Oil is produced at a much lower cost then Olive Oil because the starting material is much cheaper than the olives that are used for the first pressing.
Next Chef Dale covered Balsalmic Vinegar. Balsalmic vinegar is made from the Trebbiano grapes grown around the hills of Modena. This extemely sweet grape forms the foundation of the taste of the "Tradizionale" (The traditional Italian method of making balsalmic vinegar). The grapes, which are harvested as late as possible, are crushed. The resulting must is then filtered immediately into a boiling vat where it is reduced from 30-70% in order to increase the sugar level. Then the liquid is cooled, filtered again and poured into wooden casks. During the other months of the year, the vinegar is left alone except for the occasional inspection of the vinegar maker. The climate of Modena, the fluctuating hot summers and cold winters, is said to be very important to the taste of the final product.
Last, but not least, Chef Dale talked about salt. They use three types of salt at Cook Street: Kosher salt (it is gourmet because it does not contain iodine), Isle de Rei sea salt and finely ground Isle de Rei sea salt (they grind it a mortar). Apparently we will learn the importance of salting food when we get in the kitchen!
After a short break, Debbie started telling us about fortified wines. Sherry is made from grapes grown in the Andalucia region and Jerez district of Spain. Sherrys can vary in taste from dry to sweet fortified wines with a high alcohol or have high alcohol and high residual sugar. Only white grapes are used to make Sherry. Those grapes are Palamino grapes and Pedro Ximenez grapes. Making Sherry is very complicated, blending and aging using the Solera System-continually topping off the barrels of old wine with new wine.
Madeira is made from grapes grown on the island of Madeira in Portugal. Madiera can be dry to sweet fortified wines that are oxidized and have an alcohol content of 18-20%. All Madeiras go thru normal fermentation before undergoing a heat treatment or "Estafugem". Wines are put in heated rooms or tanks (estufas) for at least 90 days and up to several months. 18 months after cooling, the Sherry goes into a solera system where it can age indefinitely (100s of years!!).
For lunch we had Tuscan steak with grilled asparagus, onions and mushrooms, potatoes, salad and bread. Chef Pete told us after coming back to Cook Street he has gained 20 pounds! I thought Kim, one of my classmates, was going to have a heart attack! She doesn't want to gain any weight, lol!
After lunch, we moved on to Port. Port is 50% fortified wine and 50% still wine. The grapes (at least 10) for Port are grown in the Duomo Valley, harvested, and shipped down to Opporto to be made into wine. Port derives its name from Opporto. All Ports are sweet; fermentation is stopped by adding grape or grain spirits. Ports are aged anywhere from 2 to 40 years. There are tawny ports, called tawny because they stary in barrels longer and oxidize and then there are ruby ports that look more like red wine. Either one of these Ports are better the longer they age.
Tomorrow is a review day and after next week I will be done with wine. It doesn't seem like three weeks have passed! My business course was moved to the week of June 28-everyone not taking the business course will have the week off. We start in the kitchen Tuesday, July 6. I am excited about starting to cook!
"Cooking is like love. It should be entered into with abandon or not at all."
-Harriet Van Horne
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